No Messin’ Around: A night out with Suburban’s wine buyers.
Last Tuesday evening, Lance treated George, Jason and me to a quiet dinner and some incredibly good wines at Dish in Mahopac, NY. As we slurped on potato and leek soup with truffle oil, and devoured duck liver pate, escargots, Venison Bolognese, and strip steak, we also enjoyed and assessed some wicked juice. Here’s what we discovered about them:
2000 Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets
This wine was easy to assess: Corked! Would have been a beauty.
1989 Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St Jacques
We were so disappointed by the Ramonet, we went straight to the top. The breed of this wine is something I only experience twice a year or so. It started off with primary cherry fruit aromas, reminding, believe it or not, of top flight California Pinot. As it decanted, notes of mint, pine forest, juniper berries, and wood smoke emerged. The texture was super velvety, and ripe acid held the whole package together. This Burg is simply surreal and very palate spoiling. A holder.
1989 Chateau Montrose, St-Estephe
Different animal, similar pedigree. This is the way Cabernet is supposed to be. It smelled like Crème de Cassis, graphite, and 1,000 sharpened pencils! It was so much drier than any new world Cab, with a satisfying bitterness in the youthful tannins. The palate grew more complex as the wine opened, and the structure was ever present. Seemed so young….I would have called it as a 2000.
2001 Rafanelli Cabernet Sauvignon, Dry Creek
Here we were in Sonoma, and quite evidently. The Raff had also stayed quite youthful after a decade. It was fat in aroma, with juicy currants, tobacco and clay. The palate was at once sweet and savory, with prominent licorice notes. The oak was no longer in the picture, rendering this very interesting. Drink now.
2005 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley
Washington State hangs in there! Opened up very slowly. This was certainly more about its fruit and oak for now, showing chocolate, raspberry jell, ripe red fruit, and proper acidity. If you have one, give it time to put on weight and gain complexity.
Thank you, gang, for the treats!