Suburban Goes to Italy 2009 - Part Three

So we start this wonderful 2 hour plus drive from north of Pisa to Montalcino. Five men (plus luggage) were crammed into an Alpha Romeo station wagon. We were riding low to the ground! Turns out that one of the guys brought his GPS with him, so we fire it up and off we go.

Everything is running very smoothly until we get about 3 miles outside of the town of Montaclino. The actual town is nestled on the top of a hill, literally carved into the mountain. Anyway, after several wrong turns and u-turns, we find our way onto the road that leads us directly into town. It is a dirt road, about the width of the car, with a drainage channel on either sire. By this time it is 8pm and pitch black outside. Oh, by the way, I neglected to mention that the road was well worn in, with two grooves for your tires, and a lovely hump in the middle. Five men + luggage + dirt goat path = sparks flying off the bottom of the car.

I was driving, and let me tell you, everyone is a critic. Trying to avoid the water channels, and avoid bottoming out the car was quite an adventure. At night. In a strange place. Uphill about 2 miles, with no possibility to turn around. Fun stuff. Only a dozen pieces of the car fell off by the time we got to the top, made our way around the narrow streets of Montalcino, and found our hotel.

Checked in, had a quick shower and then downstairs to dinner. Had a lovely dinner where the highlight was a Tuscan pasta dish called “Pinci”. I posted a picture of it below, as it truly was delicious. It’s kind of a thick spaghetti tossed with breadcrumbs, olive oil, garlic and crushed red pepper.

Needless to say we drank some wine as well. The evening’s selections were:

2007 Terre Dorre Fiano
1991 Biondi-Santi Brunello
1993 Soldera Brunello

Just for fun, I have also posted a picture of my room at the hotel. Have been to Europe once or twice, I have become used to the smaller size of rooms there, but this one was the smallest yet. No worries though, as I was only using the room to sleep in! More next time as I will review our visits to Pertimali and Uccelliera. – Lance Cerutti – www.suburbanwines.com

Suburban Goes to Italy 2009 - Part Two

Or is it really Day 1? I left yesterday, but just got here? Time difference if a killer, but I am good to go and feel like a million bucks! When we last met, I was on my way to Giorgio Rivetti’s Tuscan Estate. Normally at this juncture, I would share so fabulous pictures with you. But, when we finally found the winery (travelling in Europe without a GPS is FUN!), we had to walk a bit and I had left my camera in the car, I did take some pictures with my phone (the quality is not as great, but it's better than nothing!). Fear not, however, as I had it by my side for the remainder of the trip. Anyway, I digress, he gave us a tour of the new building. The winery is very modern in style (much like his wines), and carved into the side of a mountain. A picture of the some of the vineyards is below.

The entire operation is state-of-the-art, and brand spanking new. Without question, Giorgio’s Tuscan offerings have seen dramatic improvement since they were initially introduced 3 years ago. After we tasted through his new releases, Giorgio says “We are going to go to lunch at my favorite place, it’s only about 20 minutes North of here”. I hop into his car and away we go. A full hour later, driving at 200 kilometers an hour we arrive. But it was worth the trip, at least after my heart stopped racing!

Lunch itself was an amazing experience, at a restaurant called “Lorenzo” in Forte dei Marmi, just north of Pisa (picture below).



Giorgio, as always was the perfect host, rolling out an amazing assortment of wines (all served blind):

Philliponnat Brut as a starter
01 Valentini Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
05 Coche-Dury Meursault AC
04 Spinetta Barbaresco Valeirano
08 Spinetta Moscato Biancospino

Killer lunch…great wines…wonderful company. Thank you Giorgio!

We finished up around 4pm, when Giorgio stood and told us that he needs to leave because he is hosting a dinner that evening…in Rome! A three hour drive away! He has boundless energy and is truly one of the best in the business!

We were full, a little jet-lagged, and in desperate need of another coffee. We took a walk around this gorgeous coastal town, grabbed a coffee (picture below) and jumped in the car for the 2 hour drive down to Montalcino…..where my brother…and another fabulous meal was waiting! More on that next time!

- Lance Cerutti - www.suburbanwines.com

Suburban Goes to Italy 2009 - Part One

The few weeks before my annual buying trip to Italy is always met with a hearty mixture of angst and excitement. The angst comes from leaving my family and business for such a long period of time (this year - 12 days). The excitement, clearly, comes from the opportunity to travel to Europe and visit (and re-visit) the places that make the wine and the wine business so special.

This year, the whirlwind tour took me through all of Tuscany, parts of Emilia-Romagna, and Veneto. Starting in Pisa and looping through Montalicno, Sienna, and Florence, this was the first leg of my journey. Lessons were learned every step of the way. I hope to share my experiences with you through my next batch of blog entries, so please be prepared to either be bored to tears, or skip over large amounts of text. The choice is yours…personally, I would opt for a mixture of reading until you get bored, then, skipping the remainder of the paragraph.
First, a bit about me. I love to go places, but I hate to get there. Flying is not a fun experience for me, and an overnight flight is the worst possible scenario. Cramped quarters, bad food, surly service, and the wine choices….not so good. Having said that, Delta has a lovely flight directly into Pisa which really put us in the thick of it all right away…..boarded the plane (empty I might add), took off at 8:30pm; and landed in Pisa before 10:30am local time. Luckily, as I mentioned, the plane (a 767), had only 88 people on board. Certainly a better scenario that I had anticipated and it made for a much more pleasant flight (although the surly service and bad food was still there).

I ate (you don’t want to know), watched “Eagle Eye” (decent movie….I would give it a “7”), and caught about 3 hours of sleep (not as much as I would like, but enough for me to get by). Before I knew it, I was on the ground in Tuscany. Went through customs (which is a breeze compared to the US), grabbed my luggage and headed outside to pick up the rental car. We rented an Alpha-Romeo station wagon (there were 5 of us). Hopped in and headed straight to our first appointment, meeting Giorgio Rivetti at his Tuscan estate, where he makes Sangiovese based wines.

Giorgio is best known for the “La Spinetta” wines from Piedmont, but he spends a few days a week in Tuscany overseeing the operation there. The Tuscan operation is really something to behold. I will go into more detail in my next entry. I am hoping to give you a day-by-day accounting of the trip, and shorter snippets like this are clinically proven to prevent nodding off. Until next time – Lance Cerutti – www.suburbanwines.com

WINE WITH DINNER – What does “unoaked” on a wine label mean?

I prefer unoaked Chardonnay with my meals, unless I’m having barbequed white meats or fish. But even Chardonnays with “unoaked” on the label can taste as if they have spent some time in oak. Why is that? To find the answer, I recently put the question to several vintners I know and people in the wine industry with whom I deal. Everyone I spoke to agreed that the term "unoaked" whether it appears on the front label or in the "poetic" descriptive material on the back label, allows the vintner quite a bit of leeway, since "unoaked" is an unregulated term.

One vintner explained, "..sometimes a wine is originally meant to be unoaked, but the winemaker finds it to be lacking in acid, richness and overall complexity. In order to counter that flatness he/she might blend back a little of their oaked Chard." This idea was further elaborated on by one of our major California wine distributors, who said, "... I would say that it is very common for California vintners to ferment the wine in tank and then move it to old barrels for 4-6 months to give it texture and some oxygen. Really not “unoaked”, but by California standards it is considered to be. There are almost no Chardonnays, or even Sauvignon Blancs from California that don't see any oak."

As to the difficulty of even deciding whether an "unoaked" label is truthful or not, one vintner posited, “... If a producer makes a Chard that is fermented primary in oak and then puts it through malolactic fermentation in oak again (so that it has a huge oak character), and also makes another Chard which is 90% stainless, …well by comparison the second is unoaked. So while it is possible that the label police could come after the producer, it's not likely."

But if the wine is truly unoaked, how can it taste oaked? A few vintners said that leaving Chardonnay on the skins (or the lees) for an extended period would allow for more phenolics than you might expect from a Chardonnay. One vintner said, "…these phenolics from the skins could form phenolic aldehydes, which are normally contributed to whites through the breakdown of oak lignin. So, that could explain some vanilla or spice aroma."

Another vintner highlighted the need to distinguish the "buttery" aspect of malolactic fermentation from the "vanillin" aspect of barrel aging. "Many tasters will attribute any buttery character to oak, but the buttery aromas are mostly diacetyl -- which is a metabolic by-product of malolactic fermentation. Diacetyl, by the way, is the chemical used to flavor microwave popcorn. Vanillin can be found in oak, and I have noticed that some tasters will confuse vanillin with diacetyl."

What I've learned from this exercise is that I shouldn't put much stock in the term "unoaked" on a wine label other than to regard it to mean "minimally oaked, if at all" – Jay Roelof – www.suburbanwines.com