Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Israeli Wine

How does one categorize wines from Israel? Do they warrant a dedicated section in a wine shop? Or are they forever viewed as a seasonal event brought to the forefront only during Passover? Is there non-kosher Israeli wines? Are there great tasting kosher wines or does that remain the ultimate oxymoron?

Each year I have been tasked with tasting and purchasing kosher wines that is to be enjoyed (or at least tolerated), during Pesach. Recently my eyebrows have been raised on several occasions. From the Cabernets and Merlots that are growing in the volcanic soils in the hills of the Golan Heights to the Chardonnays of the thin lime and stony soil of the Judean Hills, I no longer have to look for kosher wines from around the world. Israel has arrived.

There are quite a few wines that I could recommend but exploring on your own in your price category would be the most fun. This year I looked forward and to enjoying the 4 cups of wine during Seder and poor Elijah finally benefited from the land of milk and honey.

Except for a few large producers like Carmel or Barkan most of the 200 or so wineries in Israeli are small and the wines are in short supply. If you like to explore there’s a whole new world available.

OK, you win; a few wines that impressed me are,

Kadesh Barnea Merlot 2004
Teperberg Silver Merlot 2006
Tevel Cabernet/Merlot 2005
Tishbi Chardonnay 2007Yogev Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay 2006

Were there others? You bet’ cha, but I can’t give away all my secrets. Meanwhile I have to find room in my wine cellar for a new country. – Fred Horowitz – http://www.suburbanwines.com/

2 comments:

SaloAl said...

Okay...I'm motivated. I bought a variety of wines for Passover and this year, only ones from Israel. I was really...really...happy with all of my choices. The bad news is that I've been told, there at Suburban, the Isaac's Ram will no longer be available. That's a wine that will stand up against just about any, from anywhere. Anyway, I did go back and buy some more and this evening, I opened a bottle of Carmel Select (2004) Sauvignon Blanc. I can say, without hesitation, that it wasn't that I enjoyed it because it wasn't mediocre and I was happy to have something better than mediocre at the Passover table. If like Sauvignon Blanc fresh, "citrussy" though not lemony, strong, and dry with a fine finish, then this is one that I'd recommend for sure. I don't remember the price but it isn't an expensive wine. If this sounds like a wine you'd like, have some fun and give it a try.

Suburban Wines said...

Hi Saloal,
The days of having mediocre wines for Passover are gone. I’m glad you enjoyed Carmel Select Sauvignon Blanc, although I am surprised that you had the ’04 vintage. We had their ’06 vintage in stock during Passover and still have a few bottles left. I thought that dollar for dollar it could compete with S.B.’s from anywhere.

I too was disappointed in not being able to get Isaac’s Ram this year. This year’s find for me was the 2004 Carmel Winery Appellation Series Cab/Shiraz blend from Galilee. Gold award winner of the Mediterranean International Wine Challenge in 2006, this wine has all the complexity, depth and aromatics that one should demand in a $30 wine. A testament to how Carmel Wines have become new age is that their 2004 Judean Hills Appellation Series Petite Syrah took the Silver Award at the same challenge. - Fred