Wednesday, June 4, 2008

Impressions from a Southern Rhone ramble.


Our own George F returned last week from a week of tasting in France’s Rhone Valley and Provence. Clearly his visit to Paul Vendran’s La Ferme Saint Pierre estate in the Cotes du Ventoux made the biggest impression of the dozen or so winemaker visits he made.

“Paul Vendran showed the best array of wines I encountered on this trip.
I’m always impressed by winemakers who make a range of terrific wines. Anyone who can make a delightful rose, a stunning Viognier, and three separate exceptional and sharply priced bottlings of Cotes du Ventoux – each one with depth of character- gets a gold star in my ledger.

Vendran’s vineyards are in a gorgeous area of gently rolling hills that lead up to the base of the imposing Mont Ventoux. Many of his vines are grizzled veterans of 45 years or more, particularly the Carignan and Grenache. During a tour of the estate in his minivan he explained his approach to viticulture, which is essentially bio-dynamic – ground cover between rows, no chemicals used etc etc.

Back at the cellar (really an aluminum pull barn) , we were all amused by the chaos and disorganized tangle of crushers, fermenters and palleted wines that makes up the top floor. There was even a small scale bottling and labeling unit in the midst of everything – evidence of a one man show to be sure. His barrel room downstairs was much more orderly and negotiable…

The wines we tasted were all wonderfully precise and joys to drink, which was not the case everywhere we stopped. The Cuvee Juliette rose should arrive in late June but Suburban has the 2007 Viognier (think Condrieu at ½ price), the 2007 Cotes du Ventoux Rouge (think CDR with lovely mouthfeel and texture) and the 2005 Cotes du Ventoux Cuvee Roi Faineant (rich and unique in flavor bringing to mind certain CDPs and Rasteaus) currently in stock. These are food friendly and delicious wines that should please just about anyone. Don’t miss them.” – George Feaver –
www.suburbanwines.com

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