Thursday, June 12, 2008

Michael in Austria, Part I


As part of an educational program launched by the staff at Domaine Select Wine Estates, importer and distributor of scores of fine European wines, I spend 5 days in Austria last summer exploring wine and food. My host was DSWE’s German/Austrian wine director, the genuine, tireless and well-immersed Daniel Hubbard, who reintroduced me, along with 4 of his regional reps, to the vinous wonders that emerge from this part of the world. This posting will be the first of many documenting my experience.

The producers that Daniel single-handedly discovered are true artisans, many of whom are responsible for stirring worldwide interest in the Central European wine paradigm at the dawn of a new century. Most of them produce wine in tiny amounts, focusing on cru and indigenous grapes, while remaining loyal to the winemaking practices developed by their ancestors. A modern trend of returning to the organic farming techniques of centuries past is widespread in the region, and many winemakers are passionate about keeping it that way.

All in all, this was a thorough trip with very little down time. I had the opportunity to sample better than 200 wines made from 20 different grape varieties, 85% of them white, and many of them mature to the tune of 15-35 years! What I experienced astounded me, and my outlook on the wines of this part of Europe has radically transformed. The wines of Wachau, Wagram and Styria, for instance, have proven to be some of the most place-specific in the northern hemisphere, varying broadly in degrees of minerality, textural density and sugar content at the digression of both the winemaker and his/her terroir.

Many thanks go out to Daniel and Co. for their hard work toward making this brilliant experience happen for me. Look for more postings about my specific experiences in the coming days and weeks. -Michael Koehler -
www.suburbanwines.com

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